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The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Ĭartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) - who was born into poverty - founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Although the Calibre de Cartier collection has apparently been discontinued, it remains popular on the secondhand market for a sporty design ethos that renders it ideal for daily wear.įor its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
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Later, the timepiece became available with a bracelet and other variations on the original design, such as the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph and the waterproof Calibre de Cartier Dive. The original Calibre de Cartier was offered in assorted cases and dial colors with a leather band. For those who appreciate such details, the movement, in its intricate metallic beauty and blued screwheads, is visible through a sapphire crystal window on the back of the watch. In addition, ceramic ball bearings offer the rotor protection from shock, and the rotor can be wound with movement from either direction, which is unusual for most automatic watches. Double barrels (rather than the standard single barrel) allow the watch to contain a 48-hour power reserve, meaning that the watch will display the accurate time off-wrist for two days. The 1904-PS MC mechanical movement is a technological marvel.
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Of these, the Calibre de Cartier is the company’s first watch to feature an automatic mechanical movement designed entirely in-house at Cartier’s production facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. As Cartier entered the new millennium, it began producing a number of new models. The resulting Santos watch was a commercial success, paving the way for other legendary Cartier watches like the Tonneau, the Tank Française and the Crash throughout the 20th century. Louis Cartier (1875–1942), the grandson of the house’s founder Louis-François Cartier, developed a wearable watch in 1904 at the request of his friend the charismatic pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to tell the time mid-flight without pulling out his pocket watch. Founded in 1847, Cartier is credited with popularizing one of the first true modern wristwatches. Launched in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier was the internationally acclaimed French jeweler’s bold statement - and a relatively affordable one - in the men’s sports market, although the watch remains true to Cartier’s design heritage through signature elements, such as sword-like hands and an inlaid blue cabochon in the winding crown. With a robust 42mm case, thick rounded lugs and a simple dial that combines Roman numerals and baton indexes, the 5.3-ounce watch exudes a gentle masculine aesthetic. And that is precisely what the Cartier design team intended. If you were to describe the Calibre de Cartier watch in a word, it would be simply this: masculine.